Next on our list was on the South-East coast, in Durban.
Durban is a cultural blend of quintessentially african urban, with the bustling downtown area in constant motion, fruit and vegetable stalls lining the streets up and down and worn down storefronts in a constant circulation of smiling joking people, and a laid back, beachfront lifestyle where everyone moves in slow motion and carry's their shoes in their bags. Then, there's the flurescent nightlife, when the young cats come out and enjoy the fun, artistic scene this generation has brought with it.
I was in love with all of it, almost instantly. After yet another long, tiring drive, this time in an even smaller car we rented after getting stuck at a gas station for six hours on our way back from Kruger (while we waited for the tow truck to come, we got dinner at Steers. I had the greek salad) we arrived in Durban at the height of evening rush hour. There were people everywhere. In cars, on the sidewalks, running in the streets, standing at bus stations that littered the wide blocks. Our hostel, when we arrived there, was a zigzagging mishmash of an Italian style villa, with an amazing communal vibe, very helpful staff, but very little internet.
After breakfast, we drove down to the local water park/ marine park/ aquarium/ buffet restaurant, Ushaka, after being told it was a must see; and let me tell you, it was! The aquarium was unlike anything I've ever experienced - seen from the inside of a sunken ship, the building had incorporated every detail, down to the last life jacket. My dad can testify, when I first saw a fish swim past the porthole I had my face pressed up against, I practically backflipped out of my swimsuit! But it didn't end there. The aquarium had an impressive collection of extremely angry looking sharks, an adorable tank dedicated to the star fishy's of Finding Nemo, a hypnotic, glow in the dark jellyfish display and an immersing semicircle glass panel that made us all feel like we were breathing underwater. The buffet food was spectacular. It had options to please both the veggies and the not-so-muchies in our family and an overflowing bin full of mealie meal (aka mealie pap and samp (you may or may not know it as hominy)), a southern african speciality which has stolen my meatless heart. The dolphin show was charming and had the crowd going wild! Honestly, my least favourite part of the day was the tallest water slide in africa! We have now made up our minds to push for an aquarium in Halifax. Isn't that ingenious? We think it is. If someone from the government of Nova Scotia is reading this, please take note! (I'm really not ruling that out as a possibility; I recently discovered that we have an audience in Venezuela and Germany.)
After Ushaka, we cooled off in the beautiful waters of the indian ocean along Durban's "Golden Mile", a picturesque sprawling beachfront. The water was some of the most perfect that I've ever felt, and the surf was fantastic!
On day two, we saw a completely different side of Durban, starting with the Victoria market. If we had driven down, found a parking spot and left, I would have walked away happy. Since we didn't, I walked away happier! There's something enchanting about pushing your way past hordes of noisy people; an enchantment that was apparent as we squeezed our way through the streets of down town Durban. A certain charm felt only when you have negative personal space. It's like everyone is part of a functioning routine. No one person is left out. Sure, we were subject to a few raised eyebrows, due to the fact that we were the only white people in the entire area and looked distinctly touristy; partly because of the oversized backpacks and loose fitting capri pants made out of breathable synthetic material (you know who I'm talking about), and partly because a reasonable percentage of white people in this country have made it their mission to avoid walking at all possible costs.
Trust me when I say, they don't know what their missing! That whole morning, I couldn't keep a smile off of my face.
After the market, we drove back down to the waterfront and enjoyed a quirky, delicious meal at a debuting restaurant before renting bicycles and pedalling our way down the Golden Mile! If I remember correctly, we turned out to have cycled a grand total of 14 km, stopping midway for another heavenly swim and coffee and snacks at a Mugg & Bean.
The day rounded itself off with a family card game. Needless to say things got a bit craaazy. That night gave birth to enough inside jokes to last me a couple decades and then some!
The next morning, we packed up shop and sardined ourselves into the car once more for the long drive back to Joburg. Two days wasn't long enough by a half in this amazing city and I hope one day to be back.
Watch out Durban ;)
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